FLOWER ARRANGEMENT
Flower arrangement is
a very old art. Making up of a good flower arrangement requires a lot of
creativity and one can develop this art through study and experimentation with
different plant materials.
Flower arrangement
may be defined as the art of organizing and grouping together plant materials
(flowers, foliage, twigs, etc.) to achieve harmony of form, colour, and
texture, thereby adding cheer, life, and beauty to the surroundings.
FLOWER ARRANGEMENTS IN HOTELS
In hotels, flowers
are used extensively. Various types of arrangements are chosen, as appropriate
to the area and occasion. Medium-sized ‘round’ arrangements are often provided
at the guest relations executives’ desk in the lobby and on coffee tables in
the lounges. In most five star hotels, one can see huge, spectacular
arrangements in the lobbies. Restaurants generally have bud vases on each
table, with one or two flowers in them. Table arrangements for conferences must
be low so that guests may see over them. At informal banquets, large
arrangements may be seen. At wedding banquets, wall arrangements using gerberas
are very popular nowadays. On special occasions and festivals, some hotels even
make beautiful traditional flower carpets for the lobby.
BASIC INGREDIENTS
1. Mechanics
2. Equipment
3. Containers
4. Bases
5. Accessories
6. Plant material
7. Support
MECHANICS:
These are items used
to keep flowers, foliage, and stems in place within the container. Mechanics
must be fixed securely and should be hidden from view.
Examples – florists’
foam (oasis), pin holders (Japanese term – kenzan), chicken wire, prong,
adhesive clay and tape, florist cone.
1.
Floral
foam, also called oasis, is a cellular plastic material, available in two types
– green foam and brown/grey foam.
2.
Pin-holders,
also called kenzan or needle-point holders, is a series of sharply pointed pins
are firmly held in a solid lead base, to hold thick and heavy stems securely by
impaling them on the pins.
3.
Chicken
wire, also called ‘wire mesh’ or ‘wire netting’, is a fine- gauge wire used to
cover floral foam blocks in large displays.
4.
Prong
is the simplest type of floral foam anchor. It is a small plastic disc with
four vertical prongs. The base of the prong is attached to the container with
adhesive clay and the floral foam is pressed down onto the prongs.
5.
Florist’s
cone, also called a ‘flower tube’ or ‘flower funnel’. It acts like a miniature
vase. It is used in large arrangements, where foliage or flowers need to be
placed above their stem height.
EQUIPMENT:
This includes tools
used to ensure t hat a satisfactory arrangement of plant material is created
within the container.
Examples – bucket,
scissors, knife, watering can, mister, wire cutter, cocktail sticks, turn,
wire, floral tape, candle holder, cut flower preservatives, and secateurs.
1.
Mister
is a hand- held spray bottle to produce a fine mist of water droplets to keep
an arrangement look fresh in warm weather.
2.
Secateurs
are used to cut through thick and woody stems.
3.
Cocktail
sticks or a tooth pick is used to make holes in florists’ foam for a soft stem
of flower.
4.
Cut-flower
preservatives is a bactericide ,available in powder or liquid form, to prevent
slime and smell from developing in the vase water, plus sugar to prolong the
life of fresh flowers. A preservative can be made in-house by adding 3
teaspoons of sugar and 1 drop of bleach to half a litre of water.
CONTAINERS:
These are receptacles
that hold the flower arrangement. They may or may not be hidden by the plant
material. The container must be waterproof
and neutral colours such as soft grey, dull brown, off-white, or earth
colours are most suitable because they are inconspicuous and do not detract
attention from flowers displayed. Theme and simplicity should be kept in mind
while choosing the design of the container.
Example – vases and
jugs, basket, bowls and trays, wreath frame etc.
BASES:
An object that is
placed underneath the container to protect the surface of the support and/or to
add to the beauty of the display is called a base.
Example – table mat,
tree section, wood base, stone base, and oriental base.
SUPPORT:
This refers to the
structure on which the container stands.
Example – tables,
sideboards, alcoves, and shelves.
PLANT MATERIALS:
These can be divided
into 3 basic types-
a) Flowers
( dominant/ focal/ point material) –
This consists of bold
flowers or clusters of small showy blooms. The dominant material provides a
centre of interest.
Example – Gerbera,
Chrysanthemum, lilies, Anthurium, Tulips, Poppies, Roses, Dahlias, and
Daffodils.
b) Fillers ( secondary material) –
This consists of
smaller flowers and all sorts of leaves and foliage that are used to cover the
mechanics and edges of the container and also provide added interest and colour
to the display.
Example – Asters,
Ivy, Button Chrysanthemum, Carnations, Gypsophila
(Baby’s breath),
Limonium and Marguerites.
c) Foliages ( line material ) –
This consists of tall
stems, flowering spikes, or bold leaves that are used to create the basic
framework or skeleton. This line material may be straight or curved and it sets
the height and width of the finished arrangement.
Examples – Gladioli,
birds of paradise, golden rods, larkspur, asparagus ferns, palms, tuberoses,
and Peruvian lilies.
ACCESSORIES:
These are non-plant
materials included in or placed alongside the arrangement. Their purpose in
generally decorative but could be functional at times. Accessories are added to
the design for extra interest or to ‘stretch’ the flowers when they are in
short supply.
Example – miniature
dolls, hats, ribbons, beads, painted wire, wooden fruit shapes, silk flowers
and foliage, candles, driftwood, shells, idols, interesting pebbles etc.
CARE AND CONDITIONING OF FLOWERS
A flower or leaf cut
from a plant has a short, though beautiful, life. It is possible to prolong
this for a little while by a few methods. Flower arrangers use the term
‘conditioning’ to refer to the preparation of cut plant materials for a long
life, the filling of stems with water, and prevention of wilting.
1) A bucket of water at room temperature
should be carried into the garden and the cut flowers should be immediately
plunged into it. This helps retain their moisture for a longer period of time.
2) Plant material should be cut at a slant,
using sharp scissors or knife, either early in the morning or after sunset. At
this time, they are crisp and filled with moisture.
3) As a general rule, it is best to cut
flowers before they reach maturity.
4) Carry cut flowers in a heads-down
position so that heavy-headed flowers will not snap off.
5) Wrap the flowers in newspaper till the
neck of the flowers. Plunge this bunch into a bucket of water for 3-4 hours or
overnight to condition. This is called ‘hardening’. In case of foliage,
submerge them in water for about 2 hours.
6) Use a good pruning knife or scissors to
make clean, slanting cuts, causing minimal damage or bruising to the little
ducts in the stem which carry water.
7) Make slanting cuts in stems rather than
straight ones – preferably underwater, as this helps expose a larger surface
area for water suction by the stems.
8) When stems are woody, they may be cut
crushed or split at the end, e.g. cherry, etc.
9) To revive wilting flowers, snip off half
an inch of the stem underwater and plunge in a deep container of water. Dead
flowers should be cut off.
10) Re-cut any stem that has been left out of
water, doing this underwater if possible and removing about 2 inches of the
stem.
11) To reduce underwater decay, strip the stems
of all foliage and thorns that fall below the waterline.
12) Never place a fresh flower arrangement where
it will be exposed to direct draughts from a fan or window. To prevent
dehydration, keep cut flowers away from direct sunlight and large appliances as
well.
13) Do not put flowers near a bowl of citrus
fruits as they emit ethylene gas when ripening, which causes wilting of
flowers.
14) Prolong the freshness of the arrangement by
spraying with lukewarm water from a mister morning and night.
15) Change the water everyday if the arrangement
is meant to last a while. Never use chilled water, as cut stems fare best in
warm water of about 45 degree Celsius.
16) Listerine, ammonia, charcoal, salt,
lemonade, sugar, camphor, aspirin added in small amounts to the water, or
commercial cut-flower preservatives slows down bacterial growth, thus
prolonging the life of flowers.
17) Use clean containers to prevent premature
fouling and bacterial growth. Do not use aluminium containers for flowers.
18) Every 3 days, re-cut the stems, clean the
vase, completely replace the water, and add more preservative.
PRINCIPLES OR DESIGN OF FLOWER ARRANGEMENT
1. SCALE
–
Scale is easy to
understand as we can all recognize when small flowers look wrong in a large
container, etc. However size is relative – an object seen by itself is not big
or small unless it is seen next to another object for comparison. If the
difference is great then objects do not go well together.
In flower arrangement
–
1.
Each
piece of plant materials should be related to the others in size.
2.
The
base should neither be too big or too small for the rest of the design.
3.
Any
accessory used should be in scale with the remainder of the design and should
not seem huge or dwarfed.
4.
The
whole design should be in scale with its setting. E.g. on a dining table, the
flower arrangement used should leave enough room for china and should not
inhibit conversation.
2) PROPORTION –
Good proportion
refers to pleasing amount of things and again it a matter of relationships. The
same amounts of material that appears too much for one container may seem
correct for another. Scale concerns relative size and proportion concerns
relative amounts. A number of arrangements can be made for a room and all may
be in scale with their setting but the number of arrangements may be too many,
so the proportion of arrangements to the room is not pleasing.
A guideline is that
the plant material should be one and a half times the height or the width,
whichever is the greatest, of the container. Equal amount of things lack
interest and on the other hand too much of one thing is also not pleasing. Here
the eye is the only judge.
3) BALANCE –
Here, physical as
well as visual balance needs to be considered.
Physical balance:
this is vital for any arrangement. If it is too asymmetrical, then there is a
danger that the whole arrangement will tip over. The mechanics must always be
securely fixed and the container should always be heavy enough to support the
plant material. The more one-sided the display, the heavier the container
should be. Sand and gravel can be added to achieve this.
Visual balance: this calls for the arrangement to look stable
even if it is one-sided. To increase the visual weight of the lighter side,
keep in mind that –
a) Dark flowers look heavier than pale ones.
b) Round flowers look heavier than trumpets
and conical ones.
Top to bottom balance
also needs to be considered. Large flowers placed centrally and close to the
bottom of the arrangement give a feeling of good balance.
Symmetry and asymmetry:
This refers to the
outline or the shape of the design. If design is symmetrical, then its shape is
exactly the same on either side of the centre. If asymmetrical design, then
shapes are dissimilar and balance depends on the eye being attracted to both
sides of the design equally by the use of different colours, shapes and
textures.
4) RHYTHM OR MOVEMENT:
This involves using
techniques and materials that guide the eye from one part of the display to
another. Rhythm can be in colour, size and_____________.
Rhythm in flower
arrangements may be achieved by –
1.
Using
curved stems
2.
Hiding
all or part of any tall, straight stems.
3.
Placing
flowers ‘in and out’ through the arrangement.
4.
Having
flowers at various stages of development in the arrangement.
5.
Using
foliage of various sizes and contrasting shapes.
6.
Having
an irregular line of various- sized blooms.
Rhythm is best
achieved by repetition and easy gradual change.
5) CONTRAST:
Contrast and variety
add interest to life and opposite things emphasize each other. A flower arrangement
can be dull without contrast. Contrast can be created in shape – by turning the
flowers to different ways when all round flowers are used. Contrast can be
achieved by introducing line plant material. Strong contrast in textures can be
used for interest. Very strong contrasts should be avoided as too much contrast
may upset the unity of the arrangement.
6) EMPHASIS/ DOMINANCE:
This involves having
one or more areas in the arrangement to which the eye is drawn and on which it
rests for a short time. This point is known as a ‘focal point’ or ‘centre of
interest’. The usual methods to achieve emphasis are as follows-
1.
Include
a small group of bold flowers (dominant material).
2.
Use
an unusual container.
3.
Use
striking foliage.
4.
Have
sufficient plain background.
7) HARMONY/ UNITY:
In a pleasing flower
arrangement, the plant material, container, base, accessory and setting should
all be in harmony. Similarity in appearances between materials help s give
repetition and a feeling of harmony, e.g., the curve of a piece of driftwood,
etc. The resemblance in all cases need not be identical but a link in
appearances is an echo giving a feel of relationship. The important fact here
is that all plants look as if they belong to the arrangement and give a look of
unity.
STYLES OF FLOWER ARRANGEMENT
1. All-round
arrangements –
This arrangement is
designed to be seen from all sides and is therefore chosen for a table or a
room centerpiece.
2. Facing
arrangement/ flat-back arrangement –
It is designed to be
seen only from the front and perhaps from the sides. It is therefore chosen for
placement on a shelf or sideboard.
3. Mass
style-
Little or no space is
enclosed within the boundary of the arrangement. This style is originated in
Europe.
4. Line style
–
In this style, open
spaces within the boundary of the arrangement
are the main feature. Most of the display is line material. The basic
feature of a line design is limited use of plant material with support often provided
by a pin holder.
5. Triangular
shape-
It is a popular shape
for symmetrical arrangements. The first step is to establish lines of height
and width, usually with flowers or foliage of finer form or paler colour. The
next step is to establish a focal point of interest with large or darker-coloured
flowers. Fill in with flowers of varied stem lengths, grouping colours.
· Left triangle- made in a shallow container with
consecutive stem along the left side.
· Right triangle - like the left triangle arrangement, but
the tallest stem on the right side of the container with consecutive stem.
6. Vertical
line-
A very tall
arrangement placed in long and cylindrical flower vase using a very long
stemmed flower like torch lilies.
7. Line mass
style -
In this style, some
open space is present within the boundary of the arrangement.
· Circular shape - or round shape, is an arrangement in which
flowers are arranged in circular designs.
· Crescent shape - it is asymmetrical and formal arrangement
which requires more skill and experience.
· Fan shape - the fan or horizontal shape is a good line
to follow when designing flowers for the centre of the table. It is a low
arrangement, symmetrical and thus attractive from every angle.
· Hogarth or ‘S’ shape - this style was pioneered by an 18th
century painter, William Hogarth. This is a very graceful and easier to make
arrangement when curved branches and pliable stems are used. After establishing
the S shape with these, flowers are filled in at the centre and just above and
below the rim of the tall container.
8.
Miscellaneous style -
· Parallel style/ European style
· Landscape style
· Foliage arrangement
· Dried flower arrangement
STYLES OF FLOWER ARRANGEMENT ON THE BASIS OF EFFECT
1. FORMAL ARRANGEMENT –this is symmetrical
and precise.
2. SEMI-FORMAL ARRANGEMENT – this is more
or less symmetrical in outline, but not in the details of arrangement
3. INFORMAL ARRANGEMENT – this is
asymmetrical and ‘free’.
4. MODERN OR ABSTRACT OR FREE-STYLE
ARRANGEMENT – these have no fixed rules for correct proportions. These
arrangements do not have a definite geometric outline; instead the emphasis is
on line and space. The individual beauty of each piece of plant material is
emphasized instead of the beauty of an outline shape or a mass.
COMMON FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE
Flowers –
1. Roses
2. Arum lilies
3. Gladioli
4. Dahlias
5. Chrysanthemums
6. Gerberas
7. Tulips
8. Asters
9. Carnations
10. Freesias
11. Tuberoses
12. Lotuses
13. Anthurium
14. Birds of paradise
15. Marigold
16. Orchids
17. Petunias
18. Hibiscus
19. Poppies
20. Camellia
21. Peonies
22. Hydrangea
23. Snowdrops
24. Gypsophila ( baby’s breath)
25. Bottle brush
26. Hollyhocks
27. Geraniums
28. Daisies
29. Spider lilies
30. Water lilies
Foliage
1. True ferns
2. Asparagus ferns
3. Palm leaves
4. Umbrella Palms
5. Goldenrods
6. Copper beech
7. Pine
8. Bamboos
9. Ivy
10. Boxwood
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