A stain

A stain is defined as a discoloration brought about by contact with a foreign substance which is difficult to remove. Like first-aid in an accident, the treatment of stains requires immediate action which includes blotting, grease absorbent, salt absorbent and often a cold water rinse. There are two major factors which are responsible for ensuring correct stain removal. One is the stain removal agent and the other is the method of stain removal. It is important to select the right stain removal agents which are friendly Many fresh stains, e.g. tea, coffee, grease etc. will be removed from cotton and linen articles during the normal washing process. Protein stains, e.g. egg, blood, glue, perspiration etc. are more easily removed by pre-soaking in lukewarm water with a detergent containing enzymes which digest the protein. (Note Enzymes are inactive in hot water above 400-500 C). All stains should be dealt with as soon as they occur or as soon after as possible

STAIN REMOVAL AGENTS If old or heavy, stains require special treatment with stain removal agents. The use of these stain removal agents requires care as they can cause weakening of the fibers, bleeding of dyes, damage to special fabric finishes and some are inflammable while others are poisonous. There are five main stain removal agents: organic solvents, acids, alkalis, bleaches and enzymes.

Organic solvents For example: a. Benzene b. Carbon tetrachloride acetone perchlorethylene amyl acetate trichlorethylene methylated spirit white spirit (Turpentine substitute)

Acids Acids include oxalic acid, potassium and oxalate (salts of lemon), and various rust removers sold under trade names. (All these are poisonous). Fibers vary in their susceptibility to damage by acids. Dilute acids can be used on most white fabrics but many colored are affected by acids. It is always better to use a weak solution several times than use a stronger solution at first

Alkalis Alkalis such as soda and borax, remove old and heavy vegetable stains, e.g. tea, coffee, wine etc. from white linen or cotton fabrics. Animal fibers and dyes may be adversely affected.

Bleaches The process of changing a colored substance in to a colorless one is known as bleaching, i.e. Bleaches whiten. Bleaches also weaken fibers so extreme care is needed in their use. Bleaches are of two types: Oxidizing reducing E.g. sodium hypochlorite e.g. sodium hydrosulphite Hydrogen peroxide, Sodium perborate Specific stains For the more usual stains on white and fast-colored fabrics;

the following stain-removal agents are suggested:

Ball-point ink: methylated spirit or carbon tetrachloride.

Blood- new: soak in cool or warm detergent solution, old: treat as iron mould.

Chewing gum: rub with ice-cube and scrape.

Dyes: bleach (not chlorine bleaches on animal fibers). Grass: eucalyptus oil or glycerin, follow with spirit or washing

Ink: if not removed by washing treat as for iron mould.

Ink (red): often not removable, except when very fresh, but some may respond to washing or sodium or sodium hydrosulphite.

Iron mould: rust remover, oxalic acid, potassium acid oxalate (salts of lemon), sodium hydrosulphite or Rustasol. Lacquer and nail varnish: amyl acetate, acetone (not on rayon acetate) or a cellulose thinner.

Lipstick: carbon tetrachloride and /or sodium hydrosulphite.

Mildew: hot weak potassium permanganate solution followed by a weak acid or hydrogen peroxide.

Paint (oil): if fresh, white spirit, or a proprietary pant remover followed by a solvent Paint (Cellulose): amyl acetate, acetone (not on rayon acetate) or commercial cellulose thinner.

Paint emulsion): wash immediately, as once dried it is almost irremovable.

 Perspiration: treat as for mildew or protein stains. Protein stains, e.g. egg, meat, perspiration:

protein digesting enzyme contained in biological detergents or as powdered pepsin.

 Tar: carbon tetrachloride or white spirit, scraping first.

 Vegetable stains, e.g. tea, coffee, etc: alkali or bleach (not chlorine bleaches on animal fibers).

Vomit: scrape, soak and wash. If not washable, sponge with ward water containing a few drops of ammonia. Blot dry.

Carpets and upholstery (care must be taken not to wet the backing or padding)

Candle grease: scrape, use hot iron and absorbent paper. Follow if necessary with a grease solvent.

Ink: mop up as quickly as possible to prevent spreading. Wash with warm water and synthetic detergent or use a weak acid, and rinse.

Mud: leave to dry, then brush off.

Shoe polish: scrape off if possible and then apply a grease solvent.

Urine: sponge with salt water, followed by a weak solution of ammonia and rinse well or a squirt from a soda water siphon.

Polished wood Ink: mop up as quickly as possible. Rub with fine dry steel wool or glass paper, or dab with a hot solution of weak acid and rinse. In both cases color and polish will be removed, so rub with linseed oil or shoe polish to darken and later apply polish, and buff wel

Spills, slight heat and burn marks: rub with a rag moistened with a drop or two of liquid metal polish or methylated spirit and then re-polish, or rub with a very fine abrasive, e.g. cigarette ash or very fine steel wool and re-polish.

Scratch marks: if newly scratched cover with iodine, potassium permanganate solution or shoe polish according to the color of the wood. If necessary remove polish first with a mild abrasive.

Alcohol: (a) wipe up, rub with finger dipped in silver polish, linseed oil or cigarette ash. Re-polish. (b) Wipe up, put few drops of ammonia on damp cloth and rub. Immediately re-polish.

Wood with oil finish Small burns and heat marks: rub with emery cloth or fine sandpaper, followed by boiled linseed oil. Marble, terrazzo Ink: apply a poultice of sodium perborate, precipitated whiting and water. Leave it to dry.

Rust: apply a poultice of sodium citrate crystals, glycerin, precipitated whiting and water.

 POINTS TO REMEMBER When removing stains, it is worth remembering the following:

1. Treat stains as soon as possible. 2. Consider the fibers of which the fabric is made. 3. If a colored articles, check effect of remover on an unimportant part if possible. 4. Use the weakest methods first. 5. Use a weak solution several times, rather than one strong one. 6. When using a chemical always place the stained area over an absorbent pad of clean cloth. 7. To avoid a „ring‟ always treat from an area round the stain and work towards the centre. 8. After using a chemical, neutralize or rinse wel